Contemporary Chinese Fashion

From walkway to street fashion, China’s fashion sense has grown and changed dramatically in the last decade.  From post Mao era to current day China, there has been many influences on Chinese fashion.  We will be focusing on Chinese street fashion since it is prevalent in everyday Chinese life.

One major influence on the development of Chinese street fashion is the rise of the middle class.

With over 220 million adolescents between the ages 15-24, they are the main focus of Chinese street fashion. Also, this encouraged the “fast fashion” market in China. International brands now sell more affordable versions of clothes by popularity and brand name designers.  Add fast fashion plus the availability of disposable income and the outcome is the rise of teenage “fashionistas.”

FASHION: MEN VS WOMEN

Men fashion compared to women fashion are not too different with each other. Both are low key, clean cut and simple. What’s considered “hot” for young men and women are:

  • “chao” which means trendy
  • simple and clean cut for people just graduating school which gives a more mature and sophisticated and professional look
  • the “sporty” look which grew popular and originated after the Beijing 2008 Olympics
  • high end street fashion which can consists of different versions of high end brand names and popular trending clothing

Some examples of trends during 2012 were loafers and bow ties for men and faux-hawk hair styles which elongated their faces.  In regards to shirts and sweaters, the hem or bottom of their shirt should be in between the waist and the crotch of their pants.  If it is too low then it will be considered baggy, if too short, then it is too “geeky.” Men’s pants should be snug fitting, but not too tight like western style jeans.  The bottom of a pant leg should be above the shoe which elongates the leg and rolled up hems that show the ankle are considered fashionable in China.  As for women, cut out prints are popular with fun graphic designs such as animal prints, floral or graffiti prints.  Women are also fans of neon and contrasting colors which brings out the different styles of each piece of clothing.  Between men and women, round vintage glasses are popular too.  In men, it shows intelligence and boldness but for women, it can show daintiness and the cute and passive side of women.

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Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto is an influential Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. Yohji is considered a master tailor along side those such as Madeleine Vionnet, yohji is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics.

Born in tokyo, yohji graduated from Keio University with a degree in law in 1966. he then gave up on his legal career to assist his mother in dress making business, that is where he gained his excellent tailoring skills, he further studied at Bunka Fashion College, getting a degree in 1969.

His commercially successful main line, Yohji Yamamoto (women/men) and Y’s, are especially popular in Tokyo. These two lines are also available at his flagship stores in Paris and Antwerp, and at high-end department stores worldwide. Other principal lines include Pour Homme, Costume d’Homme, and the diffusion line Coming Soon. Yohji Yamamoto Inc. reported in 2007 that the sales of Yamamoto’s two main lines average above $100 million annually.

Yamamoto is known for an avant-garde spirit in his clothing, frequently creating designs far removed from current trends. His signature oversized silhouettes often feature drapery in varying textures. Yohji’ collections are predominately made in black, a colour which Yamamoto has described as “modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: “I don’t bother you – don’t bother me”.

 

 

Fashion Illustrators

Jason Brooks

Fashion illustrator Jason Brooks is known for his digital and free hand illustrations, which have been adopted by a wide variety of luxury brands. Brooks often works by creating drawings and paintings by hand which he then scans into Photoshop, and manipulates digitally, in order to arrive at flawless finished images. He has experience in a range of areas including advertising campaigns, live events, editorial illustrations, portraits, storyboards, publishing, licensing, packaging and animation.

Brooks is also known for his travel publications such as “Paris Sketchbook” and “London Sketchbook,” in which he expresses his love for these cities and their style. Jason’s work has been, and continues to be, exhibited in London’s Victoria & Albert museum – some of his work has even made the permanent collection.

info from  https://www.thenandnowshop.com/blog/fashion/interviews/jason-brooks-artist-and-illustrator/

Jacqueline Bissett

 

Jacqueline Bissett goes horseback riding for fun, uses yoga to beat stress, works while her kids are in bed, and keeps the world of fashion happy using the classic lines of her incredible figurative illustrations. She also loves all-night clubbing, house music and is inspired by the colourful characters of Brighton’s gay scene.

Studying fashion design at the Bourneville School of Art for two years, Jacqueline then moved to the Epsom College of Art and Design where she did the Fashion, Promotion and Illustration course. She began working in Lynne Robinson’s studio before she’d even graduated, gaining commissions from a range of women’s weekly magazines.

Info from   http://www.illustrationweb.com/au/artists/JacquelineBissett/all/418

 

Modern Chinese Fashion Design

Yang Li

Yang Li was born in Beijing but moved to Perth at age 10, he states that “as far as culture is concerned there is not much history or tradition here”. Li is now based in London.

Yang Li spent his teen years in Australia playing basketball and skateboarding, which were his routes into fashion as he says “when you play basketball or skate it is how you wear your jeans or the graphics that you have on your skateboard is important, its all about expression”. Li’s athletic roots crept their way into his hyped 2012 debut which included razor sharp double faced construction, sporty tech fabrics, and elongated proportions applied to tops, skirts and jackets.

Bauhaus Furniture

The Bauhaus was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar. The German term Bauhaus—literally “construction house”was understood as meaning “School of Building”, but in spite of its name and the fact that its founder was an architect, the Bauhaus did not have an architecture department during its first years of existence. Nonetheless, it was founded with the idea of creating a “total” work of art (Gesamtkunstwerk) in which all arts, including architecture, would eventually be brought together. The Bauhaus style later became one of the most influential currents in modern design, Modernist architecture and art, design and architectural education. The Bauhaus had a profound influence upon subsequent developments in art, architecture, graphic design, interior design, industrial design, and typography.

The cabinetmaking workshop was by far the most popular at the Bauhaus. Under the direction of Marcel Breuer from 1924 to 1928, this studio re conceived the very essence of furniture, often seeking to dematerialize conventional forms such as chairs to their minimal existence. Breuer theorised that eventually chairs would become obsolete, replaced by supportive columns or air. Inspired by the extruded steel tubes of his bicycle, he experimented with metal furniture, ultimately creating lightweight, mass-producible metal chairs. Some of these chairs were deployed in the theatre of the Dessau building.

Metalworking was another popular workshop at the Bauhaus and, along with the cabinetmaking studio, was the most successful in developing design prototypes for mass production. In this studio, designers such as Marianne Brandt, Wilhelm Wagenfeld, and Christian Dell created beautiful, modern items such as lighting fixtures and tableware. Occasionally, these objects were used in the Bauhaus campus itself; light fixtures designed in the metalwork shop illuminated the Bauhaus building and some faculty housing. Brandt was the first woman to attend the metalworking studio, and replaced László Moholy-Nagy as studio director in 1928. Many of her designs became iconic expressions of the Bauhaus aesthetic. Her sculptural and geometric silver and ebony teapot, while never mass-produced, reflects both the influence of her mentor, Moholy-Nagy, and the Bauhaus emphasis on industrial forms. It was designed with careful attention to functionality and ease of use, from the non-drip spout to the heat-resistant ebony handle.

 

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bauh/hd_bauh.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bauhaus

1960 Hippie Culture

A hippie is a member of a liberal counterculture, originally a youth movement that started in america and the United Kingdom during the mid-1960s and spread to other countries around the world. The word hippie came from hipster and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into New York City’s Greenwich Village and San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury district. The term hippie was first popularised in San Francisco by Herb Caen, who was a journalist for the San Francisco Chronicle.

The origins of the terms hip and hep are uncertain, although by the 1940s both had become part of African American jive slang and meant “sophisticated, currently fashionable, fully up-to-date”. The Beats adopted the term hip, and early hippies inherited the language and values of the Beat Generation. Hippies created their own communities, listened to psychedelic music, embraced the sexual revolution, and used drugs such as marijuana, LSD, peyote and mushrooms to explore altered states of consciousness.

Leading proponents of the 1960s Psychedelic Art movement were San Francisco poster artists such as: Rick Griffin, Victor Moscoso, Bonnie MacLean, Stanley Mouse & Alton Kelley, and Wes Wilson. Their Psychedelic Rock concert posters were inspired by Art Nouveau, Victoriana, Dada, and Pop Art. The “Fillmore Posters” were among the most notable of the time. Richly saturated colours in glaring contrast, elaborately ornate lettering, strongly symmetrical composition, collage elements, rubber-like distortions, and bizarre iconography are all hallmarks of the San Francisco psychedelic poster art style. The style flourished from roughly the years 1966 to 1972. Their work was immediately influential to album cover art, and indeed all of the aforementioned artists also created album covers. Psychedelic light-shows were a new art-form developed for rock concerts. Using oil and dye in an emulsion that was set between large convex lenses upon overhead projectors, the lightshow artists created bubbling liquid visuals that pulsed in rhythm to the music. This was mixed with slideshows and film loops to create an improvisational motion picture art form, and to give visual representation to the improvisational jams of the rock bands and create a completely “trippy” atmosphere for the audience. The Brotherhood of Light were responsible for many of the light-shows in San Francisco psychedelic rock concerts.

Antoni Gaudi

Gaudi was a Spanish  Catalan architect from Reus and the best known practitioner of Catalan modernism. his work reflect an individualised and distinctive style . the majority of his work is located in Barcelona including his magnum opus and the Sagrada Familia.

Antoni’s work was influenced by his passions in life; architecture, nature and religion. considering every detail in his creations gaudi  integrated such crafts as ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging and carpentry.

under the influence of neo-gothic art and oriental techniques, guadi became part of the Modernista movement, this movement reached its peak in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. guadis work transcended mainstream Modernisme with an organic style inspired by natural forms.

preferring to make 3d scale models of his ideas and moulding details as he conceived them Guadi rarely drew his plans.

 

Harry Goodwin

I Harry Goodwin chose this course too expand my view and knowledge of graphic design and also learn about the different aspects of design in general. I also want to start my own clothing label in the near future so having a more advanced techniques under my belt will certainly help me create more interesting and complex designs. have had experience on photoshop being self taught and have done work for myself and friends but also have done jersey designs for a few different sports teams such as a basketball jersey and three different paintball jerseys from my own to a semi pro division team.

after this course I can see myself continuing my studies in the cert 4 graphic design course and either university or diploma course after that.

I would like to learn the history of design and what was the fuel behind the fire in the work from famous designers in the past hoping to gain some influence from them.

heres some eye candy 🙂

Luciid ppreflexxxxxHarry Goodwin GFX v2

Theo Van Doesburg

Being one of the founders and leading theorist of De Stijl Theo Van Doesburg and his movement flourished into one of the major inter-war art movements, advocating a simplified, geometric, and aesthetic reduction in the visual arts. Also arguing that painting, design and architecture be fully integrated Van Doesburg created numerous abstract paintings, designed buildings, room decorations furniture and house hold items.

Theo wrote many essays and published journals on geometric abstraction and De Stijl he also organised numerous exhibitions of works by De Stijl and related movements.

Theo had his own personal version of De Stijl which he called Elementarism, whicch emphasised subtle shifts in patterns and tone, tilting shapes and objects such as squares and rectangles relative to the picture plane, he allowed horizontal and vertical lines to be coloured and and disconnected from one another also varying in length.

Van Doesburgs first exhibition was in 1908. onward from 1912, he wrote for magazines to support his work considering himself a modern painter at this time. Van Doesburgs style changed in 1913 after reading Wassily Kandinsky’s “Ruckblicke” he looked back on his life as a painter from 1903-1913. making him realise that there was a higher more spiritual level in painting.

Van doesburg stayed active in art groups and the magazine called Cercle et Carre which he ended up leaving in 1929. in late February 1931 he was forced to to move to Davos in  Switzerland due to his health dramatically decreasing. he died of a heart attack on march 7 1931.

links:

http://www.theartstory.org/artist-van-doesburg-theo.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theo_van_Doesburg

http://www.designishistory.com/1920/theo-van-doesberg/

https://www.wikiart.org/en/theo-van-doesburg

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